Swells from distant Hurricane Epsilon will bring large, breaking waves to the beaches north of Cape Hatteras through Sunday, says the National Weather Service Newport/Morehead City forecast office.
A high surf advisory is in effect for the most of the Outer Banks from 8 p.m. tonight through 2 a.m. Sunday, with breaking waves of 6 to 9 feet in the surf zone. A beach hazards statement is also in effect for dangerous rip currents.
The weather service says swimming and surfing conditions are dangerous, and localized erosion is possible. For many, the water — with temperatures hovering around 70 — is still warm enough for a dip.
“Rip currents can sweep even the best swimmers away from shore into deeper water. Dangerous shore break can throw a swimmer or surfer head first into the bottom causing neck and back injuries,” the weather service says.
The most likely time for strong rip currents is a couple hours either side of low tide, which will occur around 7:30 p.m. today.